Our Day At Versailles

I think I've studied the French Revolution more times than I can count in my lifetime's worth of schooling. Some historians call it the most important event in modern Europe. But, that's an argument I'll leave for history majors. I actually had a whole section of my Honors seminar freshman year dedicated to the architecture of Versailles. So we didn't even bother getting an audio guide. I'm a bit of a know it all, and for once it was a little helpful.

Versailles is basically the pinnacle of French precision and beauty. The lines that the trees make are so sharp they could make you bleed. The furniture and decorations in the rooms inside the palace are intricate and breath taking. It was really such a cool experience. I'd seen so many pictures of it and studied it so many times. Being there felt like everything came full circle.

The front gate.

And when I say that we did Versailles, I mean we really did Versailles. We not only did the Chateau and gardens, but also the two private residences and the queen's hamlet. And we did it all on foot. Because bikes are for the weak.

This post will be a lot of pictures but I'll try my best to tell the stories that go along with them.

The actual Chateau is probably the most popular tourist part of Versailles. There's so much to see and there's so much original furniture. Not to mention the Hall of Mirrors, which is one of the most spectacular places I've been in my life. 

Mirrors on one side, windows on the other, chandeliers above, and me in the middle.

Totally took a selfie in the Hall of Mirrors. I'm a little ashamed. But not really.

One of my favorite portions was when we got to walk through the Queen's bedroom, last used by the infamous Marie Antoinette.  The bed is only a replica due to the peasant women who stormed the castle calling for the queen's head. They killed several guards before reaching her bedroom. The queen just managed to escape. So they destroyed her bed instead.

That little door was how she got away.

 Going during the off season had both its benefits and negatives. It was great because it wasn't as crowded and we never had to wait for anything. However, the gardens weren't quite so green as we would have liked. The fountains weren't on and all of the sculptures wrapped for the winter. They were still beautiful though. I can't imagine what they look like in the summer.

We also went to two private residences. One was for the king and his family to get away from palace life at the Chateau, where all of the nobility also resided. This was also used later by Napoleon. 

Napoleon's study. No big deal right?

We also saw the Queen's private residence which was used by both Marie Antoinette as well as many famous mistresses such as Madame du Barry. It's very quaint. It's also one of the few places on the residence that Marie really had a hand in decorating. Let me just say that she had a real eye for that sort of thing. 

Marie Antoinette's bedroom

As sort of a last minute burst of energy, we decided to make the trek to the Queen's Hamlet which is really far away from the main grounds. We had sort of made our way over in that direction as we saw the private residences but, the walk back was actually a little painful. The Hamlet is so quaint and lovely. I can really see why Marie Antoinette enjoyed spending time away from the palace there. Fun fact though, she never actually slept there. It's basically just a mini village, fully functioning, for her to hang out in. It also has the cutest pond ever, complete with swans. I can't imagine how gorgeous it must be in the summer there.

I'm so glad I was able to make it to Versailles. It's another one of those things that I can cross off of my bucket list. It's funny because I had to convince Stephanie to make the day trip with me when we were initially planning our trip-- but it was mostly because she had no idea what it actually was. It's historical significance coupled with the sheer visual artistry of it makes it such an amazing place to visit. She ended up being so glad we went. And I think I took about a thousand pictures.

xoxo

lauren

Exercising My Right To English Nerd in Paris

There were a lot of things about Paris that I wanted to see and do. However, this is me. And I of course made it nerdy in the best possible way (at least in my opinion).

For those of you who are not pursuing a BA in English literature, I'll give you some background. In the 1920's, Paris was the hub and gathering space of some of the greatest creative minds and movements of the time. Since it occurred immediately following WWI but before WWII we like to refer to them as Lost Generation artists. (But, that's a highly problematic categorization which has holes and issues that I won't go into here.) Notable artists who took up residence in the city of light include Joyce Carol Oates, Salvador Dali, and most importantly for me, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway. And those are just a few big names. Fitzgerald and Hemingway actually met for the first time at the Dingo Bar in Paris.

While in Paris, I made it my mission to--for lack of a better term--stalk them.

One of the things most associated with this group, stereotypically at least, is the image of a bunch of writers and artists hanging out at some sidewalk cafe. It was in no way limited to that but it is a relatively accurate picture, all things considered. 

 I made it to a total of three what I call 'Hemingway Cafes'(because he frequented quite a few cafes throughout Europe). They were: Les Deux Magots, Cafe De Flore, and Cafe Le Dome.

 Les Deux Magots and Cafe De Flore are actually right next to each other and back at the time of all of this, they were rivals, both being frequented by groups of artists. Now there are small historical plaques out front (unfortunately all in French) which detail their historical significance. Unfortunately both were very busy and very expensive so my dream of having a cappuccino at one of these cafes was crushed, but at least I did get my visit in.

Cafe Le Dome is just a few blocks away from the Eiffel Tower. I was really creepy about my visit here and totally just randomly walked through the place without sitting down or saying anything to anyone. The waiters were all really confused. The people who frequented this cafe are known as the Domiers, including: Sinclair Lewis, Henry Miller, Hemingway (duh), Vladimir Lenin, Ezra Pound, Pablo Picasso and many others. It was even mentioned by Hemingway in one story: "Ten years from now it will probably be the Dome."

Take me back.

 Aside from stalking cafes, I also visited the Shakespeare and Co. Bookstore, which is honestly a must visit in Paris if you love books (which you should). The books inside are super expensive but It's honestly more of an experiential thing. It's basically everything you could possibly want a bookstore to be, a safe haven for people who just want to curl up with literature forever and ever. It's two stories, the bottom being the shop and the top split into two reading rooms, one for fiction and one for non-fiction. You can just pick a book off the wall.

Cat included.

Also, next door they have a separate store just for really early publications of famous novels. It's like going into a museum where you can buy stuff if you have that kind of money. They have a first edition of Slaughterhouse Five. I got kind of emotional over it.

Me and the main squeeze.

In fact, I got kind of emotional over all of these experiences. I may or may not have teared up going to my first Hemingway cafe. It's just so surreal to walk the same pavement they did, or experience the same businesses they did. It helps to realize that they too were people and that people, maybe even someone like me, could do the same in their own way.

Oops. I think my English major is showing. But are you even surprised?

xoxo

lauren

Illuminating the City of Light: Reflections on Paris

I think it's funny, the way people place Paris in their heads, how it means so much to them and more often than not they don't really know why that is. I know when I told my sister that part of my spring break would be in Paris, she drooled over it. In the weeks leading up to our trip, our conversations were speckled with her making very clear to me how she was upset that I was going to Paris and that she was not. And I kept telling her that she would be going to Rome soon enough. But she always told me the same thing: that she knew but it wasn't the same. And I suppose I'm guilty of it too. I saw Paris as my pilgrimage. If Hemingway and Fitzgerald had found such a love affair with the city, well, then there had to be something special about it. Not just special, but magical. I would walk out onto the street and it would transform me. I would be an artist, a fashion model, the star of some classic romance.

This makes me French, right?

Paris is tricky. I'm going to be honest. It's like she knows just how amazing she is so she doesn't think she has to try to impress you. You have to come to her. You have to work for it. In fact, it's like she wants to see you squirm, see that maybe she wasn't what you thought she'd be, see you fight with the fact that you're still infatuated despite all of that.

I think it's easy to hate on Rome. No one knows how to drive or how to walk or how to be on time. It's like no one wants to talk about how Paris isn't perfect. Well, I'm going to just put it out there. She is actually anything but perfect. Paris was taken off of her pedestal for me. However, it gave me the opportunity to fall in love with her for who she truly is. Not what people want her to be.

She's a beaut.

So let me tell you about why I love Paris. Because I love her in despite of and for all of her faults. 

Paris is honestly the most beautiful city I have been to in my life. Leave it to the French to have the most visually appealing city ever. Everything is symmetrical. Trees and bushes are cut at straight edges. There are flourishes and statues everywhere. And I mean the Eiffel Tower. It literally sparkles. 

Another thing about Paris that was really impactful for me was just the sheer amount of art there. Even the air is steeped with it. It probably relates to the fact that it's an incredibly beautiful city. But it's more than the Louvre or lines of trees. It's the murals commissioned on the walls of metro stations. It's the performers on every corner. It's the way people dress. It's the painters and caricaturists on the side of the Seine. It's literally everywhere. It envelopes you. I had a conversation with a rather nice French man in a McDonald's and what he told me when I commented on it surprised me. He said, "We don't even notice it. Only the people who leave and come back appreciate it." 

The sheer amount of history there is also incredible. For me, it was particularly special being able to walk in the footsteps of my heroes-- although I couldn't afford to drink at the same places. God knows I tried. 

So I guess what I'm trying to say with this post is that Paris wasn't what I thought it would be. But, not in a bad way. Just in a realistic way. And I think a lot of people find that they feel the same. You just have to love her for what she is. And now I do. 

xoxo

lauren

Look At What I Ate: Paris

Just as a beginning blurb: I don't know if it's just because we specifically sought out really good restaurants and did our research but, I had some truly spectacular meals in Paris. I can't betray the food of my beloved Italy, but she does have some close competition now.

Let's Talk About Crepes

So. Many. Crepes. Crepes everywhere. But, it's not in the bad way. It's in the wonderful-makes-me-the-happiest-twenty-something-tourist-slash-dessert-addict-in-Paris type of way. The first day we actually had crepes for two out of our three meals that day. No regrets.

Where the magic happens.

Right before my first crepe. Look at the excitement.

Baby, shape doesn't matter.

Break the Fast

Cafe Richard-- Montmartre 
We found this place near where our flat was. It wasn't anything spectacular but, it was definite proof that we had no idea what we were ordering. We thought we were getting toast, some coffee and bacon. Nope. Didn't even have to eat lunch that day.

 Le Petit Pont

Right by the Saint Michael metro stop and the Siene (and the Shakespeare and Co. Bookstore). It's a fun little place and they had a pianist and some super fun drinks on the menu when we were there.

 Cafe de l'Industrie

A fun, super cheap place that's a little out of the way but totally worth it. It's been around for basically forever (like many restaurants in Paris). But, it's geared towards working class people and always has. Their menu reflects that: nothing fancy, but everything good.

Special note for, I kid you not, the best hot chocolate I've ever had in my entire life.

Money? Nah, Show Me the Desserts

Best Eclair I've ever had: Le Moulin de la Vierge

 Lunch on Rue Cler

Rue Cler is basically a foodie's paradise. If you're in Paris and you love your ingredients, I highly recommend. The shop is lined with specialty food sellers. Stephanie and I walked around and bought a every piece of our meal from a different shop. The cheese man was so nice. We told him that we were making lunch out of bread fruit and cheese, and he didn't even hesitate before saying that he knew just the cheese to give us. And the cheese was amazing. But are you even surprised?

Au Pied de Fouet

No pictures for this one but, I had to mention it. Au Pied de Fouet is the definition of a hidden treasure. It's a little closet of the restaurant. You share tables with people you don't know. The staff is super friendly and doesn't speak much English. It was also one of the best meals I've ever had in my life. Nothing was overly fancy but, everything was so perfectly cooked and paired. We also had three courses for under 20 euro a person. Where does that happen? Nowhere I know but here. This is an absolute must try.

The Coolest Things I Saw/Did in Paris

1. Visited the Shakespeare and Co. Bookstore

English nerds do not die and go to heaven. They go to Shakespeare and Co. Bookstore.

I'm getting so good at awkwardly standing in front of buildings for pictures.

2. Said hey to my girl, Mona

Oooh. Gurl. You lookin' good.

3. Did some author stalking

Just one of the cafes that I visited that were frequented by some of my favorite authors.

Being here made me stupid happy.

4. Had a traditional Parisian lunch

And it was one of the best and cheapest meals I ate.

5. Climbed the Eiffel Tower

And we took the stairs. We literally climbed the Eiffel Tower. Beat that.

6. Found cookie dough

I know I'm going to have to explain this one, because those back in the States just won't be able to understand. You see they don't have cookie dough in Italy. And not just cookie dough in prepackaged cooking form like this. But not even cookie dough flavored food items. My friend, Kyle, who has been studying in Italy since the Fall, feels its absence deeply. He freaked out when we sent him this picture.

7. Saw the site of the Bastille

Because. You know. They tore it down. Brick by brick. That's why it's so famous. 

8. Wandered the Island at night

Paris is the prettiest city I've ever seen.

9. Made the pilgrimage to Louis Vuitton for my sister

Not going to lie, I went in just to take pictures for her. But, I'm glad we did because it was a surprisingly cool experience.

Who actually buys this? I want a name and a number so I can ask them why.

10. Walked through Notre Dame Cathedral

Possibly the prettiest church I've ever had the privilege of walking through. And that's coming from someone who lives in Rome.  

The stained glass was breath taking.

11. Took this picture in the Louvre with one very sassy Cupid

Arguably my favorite picture of the trip.

12. Stood beneath the Egyptian Obelisk

Which is cool within itself. Supposedly, it was a gift to Napoleon. But it wasn't and definitely stolen. And when Egypt asked for it back, France said no, because apparently France can do that. To me though, what's cooler than the Obelisk is that it marks the site of the guillotine during the Reign of Terror following the French Revolution of 1789. Near there are also the sites of execution for both Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI.  

13. Saw the Eiffel Tower sparkle. 

It's actually not even fair how pretty she is at night. Leave some pretty for the rest of us, Paris.

A List of the Coolest Things I Saw/Did in Berlin

1. Discovered trees transplanted from Auschwitz in the Jewish Quarter